In this economy, homeowners are looking to make home improvements that make sense. Kitchens are one part of the home where improvements can go from something as small as new cabinet hardware to a full-blown kitchen remodel. According to Remodeling Magazine, homeowners in 2009 who chose to do smaller kitchen remodeling jobs, spending less than half the cost of a major remodel, recouped a higher percentage of their investment – 81.5%. The magazine included cabinet refacing in their estimates for the minor remodel.
Cabinet refacing makes sense if you are looking for an updated look in your kitchen, but like the existing layout of your kitchen. You can create a whole new look at a fraction of the cost and with a lot less disruption within your home. The actual process of cabinet refacing consists of removing the doors and drawer fronts, leaving the cabinet boxes in place. The doors and drawer fronts are replaced with high-quality new pieces, and the exterior faces of the boxes are covered with new surface material. There are a wide variety of styles and finishes available for your “new” cabinets, and you can replace and update the hardware as well, creating an updated kitchen in as little as a few days.
Don’t just think color or finish when considering refacing your cabinets. This is a great time to add new features or accessories to your kitchen. Incorporate mullion doors into your design. Add moldings and rosettes for the look of a high-end custom kitchen. You can even add cabinets to your existing layout to improve your kitchen’s functionality. Finish your refacing project off with a built-in wine rack or added corner shelves. The options are unlimited, and make sense for homeowners who want a quality kitchen for less.
Friday, August 20, 2010
Friday, August 6, 2010
Dishwasher Care
A few simple steps will keep your dishwasher in good working order and give you cleaner dishes.
Daily
• Clean the front or top of the dishwasher with warm, soapy water and a soft cloth. Follow manufacturer instructions to preserve the finish.
• Only use detergents specifically made for dishwashers.
• Use powdered detergents instead of gels. They don’t contain chlorine bleach to harm your seals or filters. They are less likely to clog the soap dispenser.
• Detergents do have a shelf life of about 2 weeks. Once you open the box, the product starts losing strength. So buy a package that fits your usage for a 2 week time frame.
• Use a rinse aid to help prevent spotting on glassware especially if you use well water or live in a hard water area.
Twice a Month
• Clean the screens or filters. Check the manufacturer’s user manual for the correct way to remove the filters in the dishwasher. Soak them in warm vinegar water to loosen mineral deposits. Brush with a soft-medium brush or old toothbrush to remove any food particles trapped in the filter. Replace a torn or damaged filter. You don’t want to allow food particles to damage the dishwasher.
• Check the food drain. While the filters should prevent food particles from getting into the food drain, it won’t hurt to take a peek into the drain to verify that it is empty and clean.
Once a Month
• Clean and deodorize the dishwasher. Run a cycle when the dishwasher is empty of dishes with a quart of vinegar to clean mineral deposits from the interior of the dishwater as well as the food drain. An alternative is to run a cycle with a scoop of Tang powered drink. It will scour the interior walls and leave a clean scent.
Bi-Monthly
• Clean the sprayer arm. Mineral deposits and food particles can clog the holes in the sprayer. Soak the arm in warm vinegar water to loosen the build up. Finish the cleaning with a pipe cleaner to completely clear the holes.
• Repair the dish racks. Should you see any exposed metal or nicks on the dish rack, purchase a repair kit from your local hardware store. The repairs are easy to make and will protect the rack from further deterioration as well as protect your dishes from rust or stains.
Twice a Year
• Level the dishwasher. Open the door and place an air bubble level on the inside rim of the dishwasher. Adjust the legs on the front of the dishwasher to keep it level.
• Check the sealing gaskets. Look at the rubber or plastic seals around the door to be sure they are pliable with no cracks or tears. Poor gaskets can allow the dishwasher to leak.
Daily
• Clean the front or top of the dishwasher with warm, soapy water and a soft cloth. Follow manufacturer instructions to preserve the finish.
• Only use detergents specifically made for dishwashers.
• Use powdered detergents instead of gels. They don’t contain chlorine bleach to harm your seals or filters. They are less likely to clog the soap dispenser.
• Detergents do have a shelf life of about 2 weeks. Once you open the box, the product starts losing strength. So buy a package that fits your usage for a 2 week time frame.
• Use a rinse aid to help prevent spotting on glassware especially if you use well water or live in a hard water area.
Twice a Month
• Clean the screens or filters. Check the manufacturer’s user manual for the correct way to remove the filters in the dishwasher. Soak them in warm vinegar water to loosen mineral deposits. Brush with a soft-medium brush or old toothbrush to remove any food particles trapped in the filter. Replace a torn or damaged filter. You don’t want to allow food particles to damage the dishwasher.
• Check the food drain. While the filters should prevent food particles from getting into the food drain, it won’t hurt to take a peek into the drain to verify that it is empty and clean.
Once a Month
• Clean and deodorize the dishwasher. Run a cycle when the dishwasher is empty of dishes with a quart of vinegar to clean mineral deposits from the interior of the dishwater as well as the food drain. An alternative is to run a cycle with a scoop of Tang powered drink. It will scour the interior walls and leave a clean scent.
Bi-Monthly
• Clean the sprayer arm. Mineral deposits and food particles can clog the holes in the sprayer. Soak the arm in warm vinegar water to loosen the build up. Finish the cleaning with a pipe cleaner to completely clear the holes.
• Repair the dish racks. Should you see any exposed metal or nicks on the dish rack, purchase a repair kit from your local hardware store. The repairs are easy to make and will protect the rack from further deterioration as well as protect your dishes from rust or stains.
Twice a Year
• Level the dishwasher. Open the door and place an air bubble level on the inside rim of the dishwasher. Adjust the legs on the front of the dishwasher to keep it level.
• Check the sealing gaskets. Look at the rubber or plastic seals around the door to be sure they are pliable with no cracks or tears. Poor gaskets can allow the dishwasher to leak.
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Thursday, July 29, 2010
August Maintenance List
Yes, it is too hot to do much right now, however, August is a good time to take care of some little odds and ends.
• Check flashlights to be sure the batteries are strong. There will still be some monsoon storms and you don’t want to be left in the dark.
• Check windows and doors to make sure locks work properly and that they are in good condition. Clean tracks and lubricate hinges.
• Repair or replace any cracked windows. Get more information about window replacement at Trades Unlimited. It’s important to do the job right so you don’t create leaks into your home.
• Add security locks or even wooden dowels that you lay in the tracks of windows or patio sliding doors for additional protection.
• Perform garage door maintenance. Click here for an excellent article from Lincoln Electric Door with instructions.
• Repair minor brick and mortar cracks in your exterior walls, foundation, driveway and sidewalks. Call a professional if necessary, especially concerning foundations.
• If you haven´t cleaned gutters for awhile, check them now. They may be full of monsoon trash. You can replace damaged or leaking gutters now, or add leaf guards that will allow leaves to slide off. Make this the last year for gutter cleaning!
• Check flashlights to be sure the batteries are strong. There will still be some monsoon storms and you don’t want to be left in the dark.
• Check windows and doors to make sure locks work properly and that they are in good condition. Clean tracks and lubricate hinges.
• Repair or replace any cracked windows. Get more information about window replacement at Trades Unlimited. It’s important to do the job right so you don’t create leaks into your home.
• Add security locks or even wooden dowels that you lay in the tracks of windows or patio sliding doors for additional protection.
• Perform garage door maintenance. Click here for an excellent article from Lincoln Electric Door with instructions.
• Repair minor brick and mortar cracks in your exterior walls, foundation, driveway and sidewalks. Call a professional if necessary, especially concerning foundations.
• If you haven´t cleaned gutters for awhile, check them now. They may be full of monsoon trash. You can replace damaged or leaking gutters now, or add leaf guards that will allow leaves to slide off. Make this the last year for gutter cleaning!
Monday, July 12, 2010
Garden Tool Maintenance
Simple maintenance can make your garden tools last longer. That saves you money! Simple maintenance can make your garden tools work better. That saves you time!
Wood handles
Wood handles need to be sanded and oiled usually once a year. Wipe off the handle to clean, and use little if any water. Use fine sand paper to smooth the surface. Remove any dust and rub linseed oil into the handle. Let it soak in. Use as much as it takes until it doesn't absorb any more. Wait about a half hour then wipe off any remaining oil with a clean, dry rag.
Fiberglass
Handles, step stools, etc. made of fiberglass need a little attention too. Wash with soap and water then dry.
Metal surfaces
Store metal tools such as shovels or pruners in a 5-gallon bucket filled with coarse sand to which oil (motor oil or vegetable oil) has been added. The small amount of oil that will transfer from the tool to the soil will break down without causing any harm.
You can use the same bucket as a cleaning step. Clean off as much dirt as you can then dig the tool up and down in the sand a few times to clean off remaining dirt and coat the head with oil. The oil coating prevent rust.
Remove light rust with a wire brush.
If the rust is a bit worse, you can sometimes remove it by soaking the tool in white vinegar; otherwise, use steel wool. Start with the least coarse grade you can to remove the rust. Once the rust is removed and the entire surface is clean, you can apply a rust-proofing primer. Steel wool and repaint any rough areas.
File the cutting edge of your metal tools to keep the blades sharp. Though it can be a tough job if it hasn’t been done for awhile even a badly sharpened tool is easier to use that a dull tool. If you regularly file your tools, it will take less strokes to keep a sharp edge.
Detailed filing instructions
Pruning tools
Clean the tool and its blades each time you use it. Use LiquidWrench products to keep hinges working freely.
Detailed filing instructions
For very expensive pruners, have them professionally sharpened or invest in a specialty tool to make sure you can sharpen them correctly.
WARNING!
Remember to always use safety glasses when working with files or power tools. One metal splinter can cause a lot of damage if it gets in your eye. Be safe!
Storage
Hanging your tools by their handles on a storage shed or garage wall not only keeps them out of the way but also prevents damage to sharpened edges. A 10-penny finish nail driven into a handy two-by-four is the easiest way to keep tools aloft. Drill 1/4-inch holes through the handles of axes, shovels, hoes, rakes and other long-handled tools to hang them on the nails. Be sure to keep the business end of the tool hanging toward the floor.
Gloves
A good well-fitted pair of gloves is a necessary tool in gardening. You must protect your hands from the sun, wind and cold. You must also protect your hands from soil borne pathogens and the cuts and scraps that would allow them easy access. However, gloves can also spread insects, their eggs, soil borne diseases and viruses. So you want to select gloves that can be washed and machined dried.
Wood handles
Wood handles need to be sanded and oiled usually once a year. Wipe off the handle to clean, and use little if any water. Use fine sand paper to smooth the surface. Remove any dust and rub linseed oil into the handle. Let it soak in. Use as much as it takes until it doesn't absorb any more. Wait about a half hour then wipe off any remaining oil with a clean, dry rag.
Fiberglass
Handles, step stools, etc. made of fiberglass need a little attention too. Wash with soap and water then dry.
Metal surfaces
Store metal tools such as shovels or pruners in a 5-gallon bucket filled with coarse sand to which oil (motor oil or vegetable oil) has been added. The small amount of oil that will transfer from the tool to the soil will break down without causing any harm.
You can use the same bucket as a cleaning step. Clean off as much dirt as you can then dig the tool up and down in the sand a few times to clean off remaining dirt and coat the head with oil. The oil coating prevent rust.
Remove light rust with a wire brush.
If the rust is a bit worse, you can sometimes remove it by soaking the tool in white vinegar; otherwise, use steel wool. Start with the least coarse grade you can to remove the rust. Once the rust is removed and the entire surface is clean, you can apply a rust-proofing primer. Steel wool and repaint any rough areas.
File the cutting edge of your metal tools to keep the blades sharp. Though it can be a tough job if it hasn’t been done for awhile even a badly sharpened tool is easier to use that a dull tool. If you regularly file your tools, it will take less strokes to keep a sharp edge.
Detailed filing instructions
Pruning tools
Clean the tool and its blades each time you use it. Use LiquidWrench products to keep hinges working freely.
Detailed filing instructions
For very expensive pruners, have them professionally sharpened or invest in a specialty tool to make sure you can sharpen them correctly.
WARNING!
Remember to always use safety glasses when working with files or power tools. One metal splinter can cause a lot of damage if it gets in your eye. Be safe!
Storage
Hanging your tools by their handles on a storage shed or garage wall not only keeps them out of the way but also prevents damage to sharpened edges. A 10-penny finish nail driven into a handy two-by-four is the easiest way to keep tools aloft. Drill 1/4-inch holes through the handles of axes, shovels, hoes, rakes and other long-handled tools to hang them on the nails. Be sure to keep the business end of the tool hanging toward the floor.
Gloves
A good well-fitted pair of gloves is a necessary tool in gardening. You must protect your hands from the sun, wind and cold. You must also protect your hands from soil borne pathogens and the cuts and scraps that would allow them easy access. However, gloves can also spread insects, their eggs, soil borne diseases and viruses. So you want to select gloves that can be washed and machined dried.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Deck Maintenance
Deck maintenance is not only important to the homeowner, it is important to the environment. Each year around 3 million new decks are built in the US. Each year another 3 million decks require repairs caused most often by lack of maintenance. These new and repaired decks are a huge drain on the nation’s forests! An average acre of forest yields wood for only two or three decks. So if all decks were properly maintained to make them last the decades they could last, as many as 6 million trees could be saved in 10 years. Let’s talk about maintenance!
Cleaning
Regular cleaning is key to maintenance.
• Sweep dirt and debris off the deck frequently. Leaves can stain a deck and retain moisture which can lead to mold and mildew.
Dry rot is a major deck problem. The fungus feeds on wood. Dry rot often leads to termite infestation. Dry rot requires wet wood. Keeping your deck free of debris which holds moisture will protect you.
• Use planters with feet to prevent stains and moisture retention.
• If your deck is built close to the ground, spread a polyethylene barrier over the soil to keep moisture from seeping up onto your deck.
• Good cleaning products:
Oxygen bleach
Deckwash made by www.Sherwin-Williams.com
Simple Wash made by www.Biowash.com
Stain Solver by AskaBuilder.com
You want a cleaner that will remove oxidation and dissolve hard to remove dirt. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cleaning with a Power Washer
While it isn’t necessary, using a power washer can make the clean up job faster. But exercise caution! An inexperienced user can damage the deck. Also consider the impact of gasoline or electric powered machines on the environment.
• A proper power washer should provide at least 2000 psi but preferably 2400 psi. Don’t use higher pressure as you can raise the wood grain or even remove a layer of wood.
• For light cleaning, use a 25 degree tip. Use a 15 degree tip for heavier cleaning needs.
• Keep the wand 6-9 inches from the deck surface. Move it in a smooth pendulum motion.
Sealing the Deck
A new deck should not be sealed for the first year. The wood needs to dry out and the fibers need to open. You can treat the deck with a new wood treatment to promote proper weathering.
The deck must be clean before you seal. It also must be completely dry.
You can paint a deck, however, paint won’t hold up as well to foot traffic as a wood stain. Your deck will require less maintenance if you use paint only on railings and balustrades.
Brighteners aren’t required but they can revive the look of the wood. Try:
Revive by www.Sherwin-Williams.com
www.Ewoodcare.com for redwood decks
Wood sealants are most likely your best option.
• Clear Finishes – With no colorant for the wood, these finishes contain water repellant and sometimes preservatives. The best clear finishes contain oils that penetrate the wood and last longer.
• Semi-transparent Finishes – These alkyd stains are more opaque but allow the wood grain to show through. They will penetrate the wood but eventually will fade away.
• Solid Stains – Since the stains site on top of the wood they don’t wear as well. They will fade in traffic areas. They will need to be re-applied annually.
• Deck Finishes – The finishes contain oils or parafins to repel water. They soak into the wood and thus last longer. They also contain preservatives to prevent mildew and mold. UV inhibitors are included to project against sun damage and discoloration.
Regular maintenance can extend the life of your deck by tens of years. Don’t miss this opportunity to save yourself some money and to save some trees!
Cleaning
Regular cleaning is key to maintenance.
• Sweep dirt and debris off the deck frequently. Leaves can stain a deck and retain moisture which can lead to mold and mildew.
Dry rot is a major deck problem. The fungus feeds on wood. Dry rot often leads to termite infestation. Dry rot requires wet wood. Keeping your deck free of debris which holds moisture will protect you.
• Use planters with feet to prevent stains and moisture retention.
• If your deck is built close to the ground, spread a polyethylene barrier over the soil to keep moisture from seeping up onto your deck.
• Good cleaning products:
Oxygen bleach
Deckwash made by www.Sherwin-Williams.com
Simple Wash made by www.Biowash.com
Stain Solver by AskaBuilder.com
You want a cleaner that will remove oxidation and dissolve hard to remove dirt. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cleaning with a Power Washer
While it isn’t necessary, using a power washer can make the clean up job faster. But exercise caution! An inexperienced user can damage the deck. Also consider the impact of gasoline or electric powered machines on the environment.
• A proper power washer should provide at least 2000 psi but preferably 2400 psi. Don’t use higher pressure as you can raise the wood grain or even remove a layer of wood.
• For light cleaning, use a 25 degree tip. Use a 15 degree tip for heavier cleaning needs.
• Keep the wand 6-9 inches from the deck surface. Move it in a smooth pendulum motion.
Sealing the Deck
A new deck should not be sealed for the first year. The wood needs to dry out and the fibers need to open. You can treat the deck with a new wood treatment to promote proper weathering.
The deck must be clean before you seal. It also must be completely dry.
You can paint a deck, however, paint won’t hold up as well to foot traffic as a wood stain. Your deck will require less maintenance if you use paint only on railings and balustrades.
Brighteners aren’t required but they can revive the look of the wood. Try:
Revive by www.Sherwin-Williams.com
www.Ewoodcare.com for redwood decks
Wood sealants are most likely your best option.
• Clear Finishes – With no colorant for the wood, these finishes contain water repellant and sometimes preservatives. The best clear finishes contain oils that penetrate the wood and last longer.
• Semi-transparent Finishes – These alkyd stains are more opaque but allow the wood grain to show through. They will penetrate the wood but eventually will fade away.
• Solid Stains – Since the stains site on top of the wood they don’t wear as well. They will fade in traffic areas. They will need to be re-applied annually.
• Deck Finishes – The finishes contain oils or parafins to repel water. They soak into the wood and thus last longer. They also contain preservatives to prevent mildew and mold. UV inhibitors are included to project against sun damage and discoloration.
Regular maintenance can extend the life of your deck by tens of years. Don’t miss this opportunity to save yourself some money and to save some trees!
Saturday, June 5, 2010
Clogged Bathtub Drains
I recently had the opportunity to share a bathroom with my nephew. Hmm. There are mysterious things in the bathroom of a 17 year old!! Most I chose not to ask about but the plugged drain in the shower definitely needed attention so I brought it up. That sent us searching for solutions. My sister was determined to find an environmentally friendly fix. I'd like to share our research with HouseTalk Show listeners.
This introductory article from the DoItYourself web site was a good starting point. I thought the suggestions at the end to keep the problem from reoccurring were very good.
Here's a good pictorial if you have a "Lift and Turn" drain from eHow.
If the above methods don't work and you feel the need for a drain cleaner, there are environmental friendly options.
Baking Soda
Eco-Friendly Drain Cleaners article from About.com
Pamela
a HouseTalk fan
This introductory article from the DoItYourself web site was a good starting point. I thought the suggestions at the end to keep the problem from reoccurring were very good.
Here's a good pictorial if you have a "Lift and Turn" drain from eHow.
If the above methods don't work and you feel the need for a drain cleaner, there are environmental friendly options.
Baking Soda
Eco-Friendly Drain Cleaners article from About.com
Pamela
a HouseTalk fan
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Check Your Electrical System
In preparation for summer, now is a good time to check your electrical system. Below is a basic list. If you have more questions or need specific instructions for your home, call me Saturday morning!
- Trip and reset circuit breakers.
- Check all light bulbs to ensure they don't exceed the recommended wattage for the lamp or fixture.
- Consider using CFL bulbs whenever possible to increase your energy savings.
- Check electrical outlets and switches for loose hardware.
- Check power cords for frayed cables or damaged plugs.
- If there are small children in the home, use safety covers on any unused outlets.
- Replace surge protectors if needed.
- Check all fire extinguishers to ensure they are in working order.
- Check smoke detectors.
- Check CO2 detectors.
- Check the batteries in your flash lights in preparation for summer outages.
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